pH And Skincare Products How Do They Relate

What does the term pH mean and why is it pertinent to skincare products? The exact definition means "the logarithmic of the reciprocal of the hydrogen ion concentration" which simplistically is used as a measuring system for comparing strengths of acids and bases.  The scale is measured from 1 to 14 with water, being neutral, at the midway point of 7.  Anything below 7 is categorized as an acid and anything above 7 is categorized as a base.   The stronger the solution the further it is from neutral (7) in either direction.  The more acidic compounds are at the lower end of the scale and the more basic compounds are at the higher end of the scale.  The stronger the compound either acid or base the more potentially irritating it is.

The pH of healthy skin is slightly acidic in the range of 4.5-6.  This area of the skin is referred to as the acid mantle.  The acid mantle is an imperceptible thin viscous fluid that is important for the maintenance of the overall health of skin and hair.  This slightly acidic pH allows the acid mantle to fight off bacteria, fungus, and pollutants.  Stress and hormonal changes can cause the acid mantle to break down creating an alkaline environment.  If the skin becomes too basic, it can become dry and irritated decreasing its ability to fight off bacteria leading to blemishes and breakouts.  Most commercial cleansers have a pH of 8 or more and most soaps have a pH of 9.0-11.  These basic products strip away the protective acid mantle layer creating a potentially toxic environment. 

Optimally skincare products should have a pH close to that of your own skin.  Alpha hydroxy acid products must have a lower pH in order to be effective in exfoliating the skin.  As a consumer you should be aware of the pH of the skincare products that you use so that you will know what effect the products have on your skin. Choose products with the appropriate pH for the skincare result that you desire the product to produce.

Cellulite

Cellulite ... known as orange peel skin, cottage cheese, or dimples, cellulite does not single out any one body type, skin tone or texture. Cellulite is seen in 80-90% of women where as men rarely have cellulite. Researching the 10-20% of women who are cellulite free will no doubt elicit tremendous understanding for the prevention and cure of cellulite. Surprisingly to many weight is not a factor in the development of cellulite. Cellulite is an extremely misunderstood condition with many myths surrounding its prevention and treatment. Females are plagued with cellulite much more than men due to higher estrogen levels. A basic biological function of cellulite is to breakdown collagen or the component of the skin that provides strength. Fat distribution in women is seen in the thighs, buttocks, and hips where cellulite is commonly seen. Although, cellulite is not considered a medical condition, many women are uncomfortable with its appearance.

The skin is connected to the underlying muscle by fibrous cords. These cords connect the skin to deeper structures with the fat cells lying in between . The cords pull the skin down, but as the fat cells accumulate they push up against the skin creating the dimpling effect seen as cellulite. It is commonly seen in families so a strong genetic component is definitely a contributing factor for developing cellulite. Even though weight is not necessarily a factor in cellulite development, maintaining a normal weight will decrease the appearance of cellulite. Also, increasing muscle tone will lessen the appearance of cellulite as well. Liposuction is not an alternative for cellulite treatment and may actually increase its appearance. According to a study recently published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal, cellulite may be improved with a combination of laser treatment and fat transplantation. Laser treatment on the affected area proved to tighten the skin by stimulating collagen production and on a deeper level the laser proved to reduce fatty tissue. The fat from the patient was transplanted by injection into the dimpled areas to plump the skin. This was a small study, but had promising results. More research will be performed to obtain final conclusions. Unfortunately, there are not really any effective topical treatments for reducing cellulite. The best treatments contain collagen building ingredients such as Retinol and Vitamin C, but it takes several weeks to see any benefit from these products. Much research is being done in the cellulite fight so keep informed for the latest innovations. Since the public is clamoring for an effective cellulite treatment, researchers are bound to find something to alleviate this unsightly condition.

Peptides in Anti-Aging Skincare Products Real Hope or Just Hype?

Peptides have become increasingly more popular in anti-aging skincare products. They are short chain amino acids that are components of larger proteins, such as collagen. They have been studied for more than fifty years and the benefits of applying them to the skin were discovered during research for wound healing. Amino acids are the building blocks of DNA, RNA, cells, and even play a significant role in cellular regeneration. When your skin is exposed to the sun, it is damaged but the skin works to repair the damage and even regenerates collagen but as we age the ability to regenerate collagen starts to dwindle. Our skin needs to be stimulated to make collagen as we age and peptides can mitigate this action. Peptides are small molecules, allowing them to penetrate the skin readily and quickly to stimulate collagen production resulting in smoother, more lifted looking skin. The sequence of amino acids and their chain structure determine how they function in the body. For example, Acetyl hexapeptide is known to elicit "Botox like" action by preventing muscle contraction and therefore the formation of wrinkles. Palmitoyl pentapeptide stimulates production of collagen thereby thickening the skin and plumping wrinkles from within. Acetyl dipeptide is used primarily in eye products because of its ability to improve circulation and to help the body clear away toxins making it especially beneficial for reducing under eye bags.

Researchers are continuing to modify the amino acid chains to create products that increase skin penetration and decrease toxicity. Peptides are involved in the control of, among other things, inflammation, the creation of melanin, and protein synthesis, so creating synthetic peptides can have wide ranging effects. The potential for the use of peptide ingredients in cosmetics will only continue to grow as researchers uncover many other uses for this fascinating group of ingredients.

So what does this all mean to the consumer? It means that peptides are here to stay and their efficacy will only increase as more research is done. There have been studies that show marked improvement in wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, and firmness within one to twelve weeks of use, but this all depends on the overall health of the skin and the depth of the wrinkles. Peptides require a commitment from the consumer or the skin will return to its former condition. This means a daily use of peptide containing products to maintain the increased production of collagen. We are really very fortunate to have products available to us that benefit the skin and have scientific research to prove it. Skincare will only continue to improve as more and more research is accomplished.