Thursday, August 13, 2009

Peptides in Anti-Aging Skincare Products Real Hope or Just Hype?

Peptides have become increasingly more popular in anti-aging skincare products. They are short chain amino acids that are components of larger proteins, such as collagen. They have been studied for more than fifty years and the benefits of applying them to the skin were discovered during research for wound healing. Amino acids are the building blocks of DNA, RNA, cells, and even play a significant role in cellular regeneration. When your skin is exposed to the sun, it is damaged but the skin works to repair the damage and even regenerates collagen but as we age the ability to regenerate collagen starts to dwindle. Our skin needs to be stimulated to make collagen as we age and peptides can mitigate this action. Peptides are small molecules, allowing them to penetrate the skin readily and quickly to stimulate collagen production resulting in smoother, more lifted looking skin. The sequence of amino acids and their chain structure determine how they function in the body. For example, Acetyl hexapeptide is known to elicit "Botox like" action by preventing muscle contraction and therefore the formation of wrinkles. Palmitoyl pentapeptide stimulates production of collagen thereby thickening the skin and plumping wrinkles from within. Acetyl dipeptide is used primarily in eye products because of its ability to improve circulation and to help the body clear away toxins making it especially beneficial for reducing under eye bags.

Researchers are continuing to modify the amino acid chains to create products that increase skin penetration and decrease toxicity. Peptides are involved in the control of, among other things, inflammation, the creation of melanin, and protein synthesis, so creating synthetic peptides can have wide ranging effects. The potential for the use of peptide ingredients in cosmetics will only continue to grow as researchers uncover many other uses for this fascinating group of ingredients.

So what does this all mean to the consumer? It means that peptides are here to stay and their efficacy will only increase as more research is done. There have been studies that show marked improvement in wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, and firmness within one to twelve weeks of use, but this all depends on the overall health of the skin and the depth of the wrinkles. Peptides require a commitment from the consumer or the skin will return to its former condition. This means a daily use of peptide containing products to maintain the increased production of collagen. We are really very fortunate to have products available to us that benefit the skin and have scientific research to prove it. Skincare will only continue to improve as more and more research is accomplished.

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