Few people are aware of the anti-aging benefits of Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). When used correctly, it can be a true ally in your fight against aging skin. Vitamin C must be obtained solely from food since it is not manufactured by the body. Citric fruits are a good source of Vitamin C and are essential in the prevention of scurvy. Topically, Vitamin C is a major line of defense for aging skin since; like the rest of the body, the skin is vulnerable to deficiency. It is a potent antioxidant and is essential in the formation of collagen. Sun exposure and smoking are the most common causes of damaged skin. Using topical Vitamin C enhances the skin's ability to neutralize free radical damage created by the sun's ultraviolet rays. Topical preparations are more effective than oral preparations because a higher dose is available to penetrate the needed area. Vitamin C is a photoprotectant and has the ability to reduce sunburn cells and decrease redness when the skin is exposed to UVA and UVB rays.
Vitamin C is very unstable and can be easily oxidized upon exposure to light and oxygen. Therefore, a container that prevents exposure to the sun and air is crucial in maintaining Vitamin C potency. Once it is oxidized Vitamin C is rendered ineffective. A change in color is indicative of expired Vitamin C. The strengths range from 5% to 15%. Concentrations greater than 15% tend to be irritating to the skin. A skincare regimen including a Vitamin C product is very beneficial in aiding the fight against aging skin.
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Friday, November 13, 2009
The Power of Hyaluronic Acid
Dry skin and wrinkles go hand-in-hand. Hyaluronic Acid which is naturally produced in the body is a wonderful ingredient for replenishing moisture in the skin. It is found in high concentration in the soft connective tissue and in the fluid surrounding the eye. It is also present in cartilage, joint fluids, and in skin tissue. Hyaluronic Acid forms a film on the skin which holds moisture keeping the surface of the skin supple and moist. Hydrated skin is more plump leading to fewer noticeable wrinkles. Hyaluronic Acid has a high molecular weight; therefore, it cannot be absorbed into the skin but traps moisture on the surface of the skin. It can hold 1000 times its weight in water.
Hyaluronic Acid can also be injected by a trained professional and will plump and smooth wrinkles in just one treatment. Some commercial names for these fillers are Juvederm, Perlane, and Resylane. The injectable treatment works very well, but maintenance is required about every 6 to 12 months. Side effects include swelling, bruising, discoloration, and pain at the injection site but these side effects subside after a few days. Since Hyaluronic Acid occurs naturally in the body, there is little chance that it would cause an allergic reaction or a rejection to the filler. ABC News reported a village in Japan whose residents consumed a diet rich in hyaluronic acid indicating a possible link to hyaluronic acid and longevity.
Hyaluronic Acid may not be the "fountain of youth" but it is a wonderful ingredient in the fight against wrinkles and aging skin. Moisturizers containing hyaluronic acid certainly merit their place as a main stay in anti-aging skincare products.
Hyaluronic Acid can also be injected by a trained professional and will plump and smooth wrinkles in just one treatment. Some commercial names for these fillers are Juvederm, Perlane, and Resylane. The injectable treatment works very well, but maintenance is required about every 6 to 12 months. Side effects include swelling, bruising, discoloration, and pain at the injection site but these side effects subside after a few days. Since Hyaluronic Acid occurs naturally in the body, there is little chance that it would cause an allergic reaction or a rejection to the filler. ABC News reported a village in Japan whose residents consumed a diet rich in hyaluronic acid indicating a possible link to hyaluronic acid and longevity.
Hyaluronic Acid may not be the "fountain of youth" but it is a wonderful ingredient in the fight against wrinkles and aging skin. Moisturizers containing hyaluronic acid certainly merit their place as a main stay in anti-aging skincare products.
Monday, October 26, 2009
Vitamin E - Potent Antioxidant
Vitamin E is a well-known cosmetic ingredient that has time proven scientific research to substantiate its claims as one of the best antioxidants on the market. In the scientific world Vitamin E is called tocopherol which is derived from the Greek words tokos, meaning "childbirth," and pherein meaning "to carry." The "ol" on the end of the word designates it as an alcohol. Vitamin E can be divided into two basic forms-tocopherols and tocotrienols. These two forms can be further subdivided into eight different forms depending on their chemical composition.
When applied topically Vitamin E has two major functions: to protect the skin from UV light damage and maintain the skin's barrier function. Even a little UV exposure is able to deplete Vitamin E content thereby reducing the antioxidant protection. This occurs even without reddening of the skin. The damaged skin has the ability to return the levels of Vitamin E to almost baseline within 24 hours, but a lot of epidermal damage can occur within that time period. Vitamin E should be used in sunscreens because of its ability to reduce free radical damage in the skin thus reducing the severity of sunburn. It can be used both before and after the skin's exposure to the sun. Vitamin E is best used in combination with other antioxidants such as Vitamin C, green tea, and coenzyme Q10.
Vitamin E is the major lipid-soluble antioxidant in the cell antioxidant defense system. Biologically Vitamin E protects fatty acids and other components of cell membranes and LDL from oxidation by free radicals. When taken orally or used topically Vitamin E can help the body in its fight against free radicals. Vitamin E can help slow down the aging process and is a great preventive against vascular damage.
Vitamin E should be incorporated into your skin care treatment plan to provide a powerful antioxidant that is crucial in fighting skin aging. Free radical damage leads to a compromised barrier function leading to water loss and bacterial invasion hindering the skin's ability to function normally. Vitamin E has a role in preventing these problems. It is highly recommended that you add a product containing Vitamin E to your skin care arsenal.
When applied topically Vitamin E has two major functions: to protect the skin from UV light damage and maintain the skin's barrier function. Even a little UV exposure is able to deplete Vitamin E content thereby reducing the antioxidant protection. This occurs even without reddening of the skin. The damaged skin has the ability to return the levels of Vitamin E to almost baseline within 24 hours, but a lot of epidermal damage can occur within that time period. Vitamin E should be used in sunscreens because of its ability to reduce free radical damage in the skin thus reducing the severity of sunburn. It can be used both before and after the skin's exposure to the sun. Vitamin E is best used in combination with other antioxidants such as Vitamin C, green tea, and coenzyme Q10.
Vitamin E is the major lipid-soluble antioxidant in the cell antioxidant defense system. Biologically Vitamin E protects fatty acids and other components of cell membranes and LDL from oxidation by free radicals. When taken orally or used topically Vitamin E can help the body in its fight against free radicals. Vitamin E can help slow down the aging process and is a great preventive against vascular damage.
Vitamin E should be incorporated into your skin care treatment plan to provide a powerful antioxidant that is crucial in fighting skin aging. Free radical damage leads to a compromised barrier function leading to water loss and bacterial invasion hindering the skin's ability to function normally. Vitamin E has a role in preventing these problems. It is highly recommended that you add a product containing Vitamin E to your skin care arsenal.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
pH And Skincare Products How Do They Relate
What does the term pH mean and why is it pertinent to skincare products? The exact definition means "the logarithmic of the reciprocal of the hydrogen ion concentration" which simplistically is used as a measuring system for comparing strengths of acids and bases. The scale is measured from 1 to 14 with water, being neutral, at the midway point of 7. Anything below 7 is categorized as an acid and anything above 7 is categorized as a base. The stronger the solution the further it is from neutral (7) in either direction. The more acidic compounds are at the lower end of the scale and the more basic compounds are at the higher end of the scale. The stronger the compound either acid or base the more potentially irritating it is.
The pH of healthy skin is slightly acidic in the range of 4.5-6. This area of the skin is referred to as the acid mantle. The acid mantle is an imperceptible thin viscous fluid that is important for the maintenance of the overall health of skin and hair. This slightly acidic pH allows the acid mantle to fight off bacteria, fungus, and pollutants. Stress and hormonal changes can cause the acid mantle to break down creating an alkaline environment. If the skin becomes too basic, it can become dry and irritated decreasing its ability to fight off bacteria leading to blemishes and breakouts. Most commercial cleansers have a pH of 8 or more and most soaps have a pH of 9.0-11. These basic products strip away the protective acid mantle layer creating a potentially toxic environment.
Optimally skincare products should have a pH close to that of your own skin. Alpha hydroxy acid products must have a lower pH in order to be effective in exfoliating the skin. As a consumer you should be aware of the pH of the skincare products that you use so that you will know what effect the products have on your skin. Choose products with the appropriate pH for the skincare result that you desire the product to produce.
The pH of healthy skin is slightly acidic in the range of 4.5-6. This area of the skin is referred to as the acid mantle. The acid mantle is an imperceptible thin viscous fluid that is important for the maintenance of the overall health of skin and hair. This slightly acidic pH allows the acid mantle to fight off bacteria, fungus, and pollutants. Stress and hormonal changes can cause the acid mantle to break down creating an alkaline environment. If the skin becomes too basic, it can become dry and irritated decreasing its ability to fight off bacteria leading to blemishes and breakouts. Most commercial cleansers have a pH of 8 or more and most soaps have a pH of 9.0-11. These basic products strip away the protective acid mantle layer creating a potentially toxic environment.
Optimally skincare products should have a pH close to that of your own skin. Alpha hydroxy acid products must have a lower pH in order to be effective in exfoliating the skin. As a consumer you should be aware of the pH of the skincare products that you use so that you will know what effect the products have on your skin. Choose products with the appropriate pH for the skincare result that you desire the product to produce.
Friday, September 25, 2009
Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation is the most common and distressing condition afflicting people in Western countries. Hyperpigmentation is defined as the darkening of skin or nails caused by an increase in melanin production, the substance in the body that is responsible for color or pigment. The major cause of hyperpigmentation is exposure to the sun, but other conditions may cause an increase in melanin production such as pregnancy and Addison's disease (decreased function of the adrenal gland). Certain drugs may cause an increase in melanin production such as antibiotics, antiarrythmics, and antimalarial medications, and others.
One example of hyperpigmentation is called melasma, also known as chloasma, which is characterized by brown patches usually occuring on the forehead, temples, and cheeks. Melasma can occur in pregnant women and in women who are taking oral contraceptives and is sometimes called the "mask of pregnancy", but it can occur in men as well. Melasma is more common and lasts longer in people with dark skin. Another example of hyperpigmentation is lentigines which are also called "liver spots" and they typically occur on the face and back of the hands. Lentigines are flat brown spots that are oval in shape. Chronic sun exposure is the major cause of solar lentigines. Middle age is typically the first time lentigines are noticed and they increase in number with age. Lentigines are an independent risk factor for melanoma even though a progression from lentigines to melanoma has not been established.
The topical treatments for hyperpigmentation consist mostly of chemicals that inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase, which forms pigment. Some of these chemicals used to treat hyperpigmentation are hydroquinone, kojic acid, vitamin C, azelaic acid, and arbutin. Hydroquinone has been under scrutiny for its mutagenic effect and its ability to darken the skin after prolonged use. It is banned in Japan and the European Union. Kojic acid was discovered by accident when scientists in Japan were fermenting malted rice to make sake and kojic acid was a by-product. Azelaic acid which is found in wheat and barley is a weak inhibitor of tyrosinase so a high concentration, such as 15%, is needed to produce lightening. Arbutin is purified from mulberry or bearberry extract and is almost chemically identical to hydroquinone with the addition of a sugar molecule. Once it comes in contact with the skin the sugar is cleaved and hydroquinone is slowly released. Arbutin takes a few weeks longer to work than hydroquinone, but it causes less irritation. Vitamin A derivatives such as retinol, alpha hydroxy acids, and beta hydroxy acids are often used in conjunction with lighteners because they increase skin cell turnover which in turn speeds the removal of pigment granules. Niacinamide is also an effective skin lightener. Its mechanism of action is unrelated to the enzyme tyrosinase. Niacinamide prohibits the transfer of melanosomes (the pigment containing organelle) to skin cells inhibiting the production of discolored cells.
All of these treatments require two to three months before results can be seen so patience is needed. Your expectations should be reasonable since these products will lighten but not erase the spots. They are most effective in light skinned people. Lighteners can make the skin more sensitive to the sun so a sunscreen is required while using skin lightening products. Sunscreens are the first defense against skin aging in general, but particularly to prevent hyperpigmentation so start using sunscreens today to protect your skin for tomorrow.
One example of hyperpigmentation is called melasma, also known as chloasma, which is characterized by brown patches usually occuring on the forehead, temples, and cheeks. Melasma can occur in pregnant women and in women who are taking oral contraceptives and is sometimes called the "mask of pregnancy", but it can occur in men as well. Melasma is more common and lasts longer in people with dark skin. Another example of hyperpigmentation is lentigines which are also called "liver spots" and they typically occur on the face and back of the hands. Lentigines are flat brown spots that are oval in shape. Chronic sun exposure is the major cause of solar lentigines. Middle age is typically the first time lentigines are noticed and they increase in number with age. Lentigines are an independent risk factor for melanoma even though a progression from lentigines to melanoma has not been established.
The topical treatments for hyperpigmentation consist mostly of chemicals that inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase, which forms pigment. Some of these chemicals used to treat hyperpigmentation are hydroquinone, kojic acid, vitamin C, azelaic acid, and arbutin. Hydroquinone has been under scrutiny for its mutagenic effect and its ability to darken the skin after prolonged use. It is banned in Japan and the European Union. Kojic acid was discovered by accident when scientists in Japan were fermenting malted rice to make sake and kojic acid was a by-product. Azelaic acid which is found in wheat and barley is a weak inhibitor of tyrosinase so a high concentration, such as 15%, is needed to produce lightening. Arbutin is purified from mulberry or bearberry extract and is almost chemically identical to hydroquinone with the addition of a sugar molecule. Once it comes in contact with the skin the sugar is cleaved and hydroquinone is slowly released. Arbutin takes a few weeks longer to work than hydroquinone, but it causes less irritation. Vitamin A derivatives such as retinol, alpha hydroxy acids, and beta hydroxy acids are often used in conjunction with lighteners because they increase skin cell turnover which in turn speeds the removal of pigment granules. Niacinamide is also an effective skin lightener. Its mechanism of action is unrelated to the enzyme tyrosinase. Niacinamide prohibits the transfer of melanosomes (the pigment containing organelle) to skin cells inhibiting the production of discolored cells.
All of these treatments require two to three months before results can be seen so patience is needed. Your expectations should be reasonable since these products will lighten but not erase the spots. They are most effective in light skinned people. Lighteners can make the skin more sensitive to the sun so a sunscreen is required while using skin lightening products. Sunscreens are the first defense against skin aging in general, but particularly to prevent hyperpigmentation so start using sunscreens today to protect your skin for tomorrow.
Thursday, September 17, 2009
The Science of Aging Skin
Aging begins at the moment of birth, but that fact is far removed from our conscience during our younger years. Biologically the skin changes as we age beginning as early as our twenties. The average skin cell takes about 28 days to reach the surface of the skin to be sloughed off, but as we age this process begins to slow down which in turn decreases collagen and elastin production producing skin that is loose and saggy. This decline in cell turnover also creates rough skin with an uneven appearance and dry texture. The true struggle for aging skin typically begins in the 40's with the onset of menopause for women. The lack of estrogen within the skin causes both a decrease in suppleness and thickness of the skin, but perhaps the most profound effect of decreased estrogen is the increase in unopposed action of testosterone. This increased action of testosterone creates an increase in facial hair and larger pores. The sebaceous gland secretion is controlled by estrogen so without it secretion is increased resulting in the return of acne. Hormone replacement therapy has a positive effect on the skin even for women whose loss of collagen is only slight. A physician skilled in hormone replacement therapy can best determine whether hormone replacement therapy is correct for you.
Lifestyle choices are an area that we can control and these choices have a major impact on how we age. Sun tanning hastens the breakdown of collagen and elastin leading to thinner skin and the formation of wrinkles. Smoking is another lifestyle choice that accelerates the aging of skin. Smoking restricts blood flow so vitamins and oxygen are not delivered to the skin. Our skin is protected by the supply of vitamin A and the absorption of vitamin C, but smoking reduces these processes. Smoking increases the production of enzymes that breakdown collagen thus decreasing skin's firmness. Smoking is a leading cause of skin aging as evidenced by the wrinkles surrounding a smoker's mouth. Lack of sleep slows down the repair process that naturally occurs as we sleep leaving our skin dry and wrinkled. Improper skin care using soaps that leave the skin feeling tight and dry ages the skin as well. The proper cleanser should be at a pH around 5.5 to closely mimic the skin's natural balance. Proper skin care treatments include moisturizing products that contain proper nutrition for the skin. Finally, eating a healthy, balanced diet filled with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants protects the skin and enables it to repair and maintain itself.
Using products that contain the most effective ingredients such as glycolic acid, retinol, peptides, and vitamin c among others is the best tool in fighting the aging process. Combining effective products with professional facial care will generate the best benefits for your skin as you age. It is never too late to start a skin care program, but the earlier you start the better your skin will age. Start today making favorable lifestyle choices combined with high quality products and your skin will benefit.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Cellulite
Cellulite ... known as orange peel skin, cottage cheese, or dimples, cellulite does not single out any one body type, skin tone or texture. Cellulite is seen in 80-90% of women where as men rarely have cellulite. Researching the 10-20% of women who are cellulite free will no doubt elicit tremendous understanding for the prevention and cure of cellulite. Surprisingly to many weight is not a factor in the development of cellulite. Cellulite is an extremely misunderstood condition with many myths surrounding its prevention and treatment. Females are plagued with cellulite much more than men due to higher estrogen levels. A basic biological function of cellulite is to breakdown collagen or the component of the skin that provides strength. Fat distribution in women is seen in the thighs, buttocks, and hips where cellulite is commonly seen. Although, cellulite is not considered a medical condition, many women are uncomfortable with its appearance.
The skin is connected to the underlying muscle by fibrous cords. These cords connect the skin to deeper structures with the fat cells lying in between . The cords pull the skin down, but as the fat cells accumulate they push up against the skin creating the dimpling effect seen as cellulite. It is commonly seen in families so a strong genetic component is definitely a contributing factor for developing cellulite. Even though weight is not necessarily a factor in cellulite development, maintaining a normal weight will decrease the appearance of cellulite. Also, increasing muscle tone will lessen the appearance of cellulite as well. Liposuction is not an alternative for cellulite treatment and may actually increase its appearance. According to a study recently published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal, cellulite may be improved with a combination of laser treatment and fat transplantation. Laser treatment on the affected area proved to tighten the skin by stimulating collagen production and on a deeper level the laser proved to reduce fatty tissue. The fat from the patient was transplanted by injection into the dimpled areas to plump the skin. This was a small study, but had promising results. More research will be performed to obtain final conclusions. Unfortunately, there are not really any effective topical treatments for reducing cellulite. The best treatments contain collagen building ingredients such as Retinol and Vitamin C, but it takes several weeks to see any benefit from these products. Much research is being done in the cellulite fight so keep informed for the latest innovations. Since the public is clamoring for an effective cellulite treatment, researchers are bound to find something to alleviate this unsightly condition.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids - Their Benefits in Skincare Products
Hydroxy acids are used extensively in anti-aging products for their ability to decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and to improve skin texture. There are two types of hydroxy acids -alpha and beta. Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, is the smallest and the most widely recognized alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), but there are several others that are used. These include lactic acid which is derived from milk and is also a natural component of skin, malic acid which is derived from almonds, tataric acid which is derived from grapes, and citric acid which is derived from oranges and lemons. AHA's have been used for thousands of years to rejuvenate the skin. Cleopatra supposedly bathed in sour milk (lactic acid) to improve her complexion. There is only one beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and that is salicylic acid which is derived from the bark of a willow tree.
The main difference in beta hydroxy acids and alpha hydroxy acids is their skin permeability. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble and beta hydroxy acids are lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acids are able to penetrate oil filled pores which contain sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up in the pore. Alpha hydroxy acids are primarily used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are less likely. Beta hydroxy acids are commonly used in acne preparations in concentrations of 1 to 2 percent. Salicylic acid is a large molecule so it needs to be absorbed in order to be effective so cleansers containing salicylic acid are not very effective.
AHA's are used for their exfoliating properties by dissolving the bond that holds the damaged upper layers of the skin allowing the release of the dead skin cells resulting in an improved skin texture and a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles. This is a normal process of the skin, known as desquamation, but as we age this cell turnover becomes uneven and even slows down making the skin look dull and uneven increasing the thickness of the stratum corneum or top layer of skin. To keep these skin cells in a constant state of motion, we need to exfoliate on a regular basis. This allows the skin to maintain a healthy, younger look by placing the new cells on the outermost layer of skin. Several months of continual use are needed to see visible results. There are several strengths of AHA's that are used, but only strengths up to 10% are found in consumer products. Strengths as high as 30% are used as peels in a professional setting and these agents rapidly thin the stratum corneum. Peels go deeper into the skin beneath the epidermis into the dermis which creates a more rapid level of new cell growth. Salicylic acid peels are also available typically in concentrations of 20 to 30%.
AHA's are not without their side effects. These side effects include burning, itching, reddening, pain, and possibly scarring. Even though these products decrease the signs of photo aging, they paradoxically increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun requiring the use of a sunscreen containing both UVA and UVB protection. The pH of AHA's is required by the FDA to be at least 3.5 or higher decreasing the stinging effect somewhat even though these products due tend to sting upon application. Beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is a derivative of aspirin making it less irritating than alpha hydroxy acids because salicylic acid retains some of the anti-inflammatory properties of aspirin. Salicylic acid can still cause skin irritation and because it is a derivative of aspirin it should not be used by pregnant or lactating women or those that are allergic to aspirin. Consumers with sensitive skin that cannot tolerate AHA's may find they can use salicylic acid products with good results; although, AHA's penetrate the skin deeper producing better anti-aging results. A product containing an AHA or BHA should be part of your daily skincare regimen to promote exfoliation producing skin with a fresh youthful look.
The main difference in beta hydroxy acids and alpha hydroxy acids is their skin permeability. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble and beta hydroxy acids are lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acids are able to penetrate oil filled pores which contain sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up in the pore. Alpha hydroxy acids are primarily used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are less likely. Beta hydroxy acids are commonly used in acne preparations in concentrations of 1 to 2 percent. Salicylic acid is a large molecule so it needs to be absorbed in order to be effective so cleansers containing salicylic acid are not very effective.
AHA's are used for their exfoliating properties by dissolving the bond that holds the damaged upper layers of the skin allowing the release of the dead skin cells resulting in an improved skin texture and a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles. This is a normal process of the skin, known as desquamation, but as we age this cell turnover becomes uneven and even slows down making the skin look dull and uneven increasing the thickness of the stratum corneum or top layer of skin. To keep these skin cells in a constant state of motion, we need to exfoliate on a regular basis. This allows the skin to maintain a healthy, younger look by placing the new cells on the outermost layer of skin. Several months of continual use are needed to see visible results. There are several strengths of AHA's that are used, but only strengths up to 10% are found in consumer products. Strengths as high as 30% are used as peels in a professional setting and these agents rapidly thin the stratum corneum. Peels go deeper into the skin beneath the epidermis into the dermis which creates a more rapid level of new cell growth. Salicylic acid peels are also available typically in concentrations of 20 to 30%.
AHA's are not without their side effects. These side effects include burning, itching, reddening, pain, and possibly scarring. Even though these products decrease the signs of photo aging, they paradoxically increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun requiring the use of a sunscreen containing both UVA and UVB protection. The pH of AHA's is required by the FDA to be at least 3.5 or higher decreasing the stinging effect somewhat even though these products due tend to sting upon application. Beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is a derivative of aspirin making it less irritating than alpha hydroxy acids because salicylic acid retains some of the anti-inflammatory properties of aspirin. Salicylic acid can still cause skin irritation and because it is a derivative of aspirin it should not be used by pregnant or lactating women or those that are allergic to aspirin. Consumers with sensitive skin that cannot tolerate AHA's may find they can use salicylic acid products with good results; although, AHA's penetrate the skin deeper producing better anti-aging results. A product containing an AHA or BHA should be part of your daily skincare regimen to promote exfoliation producing skin with a fresh youthful look.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Peptides in Anti-Aging Skincare Products Real Hope or Just Hype?
Peptides have become increasingly more popular in anti-aging skincare products. They are short chain amino acids that are components of larger proteins, such as collagen. They have been studied for more than fifty years and the benefits of applying them to the skin were discovered during research for wound healing. Amino acids are the building blocks of DNA, RNA, cells, and even play a significant role in cellular regeneration. When your skin is exposed to the sun, it is damaged but the skin works to repair the damage and even regenerates collagen but as we age the ability to regenerate collagen starts to dwindle. Our skin needs to be stimulated to make collagen as we age and peptides can mitigate this action. Peptides are small molecules, allowing them to penetrate the skin readily and quickly to stimulate collagen production resulting in smoother, more lifted looking skin. The sequence of amino acids and their chain structure determine how they function in the body. For example, Acetyl hexapeptide is known to elicit "Botox like" action by preventing muscle contraction and therefore the formation of wrinkles. Palmitoyl pentapeptide stimulates production of collagen thereby thickening the skin and plumping wrinkles from within. Acetyl dipeptide is used primarily in eye products because of its ability to improve circulation and to help the body clear away toxins making it especially beneficial for reducing under eye bags.
Researchers are continuing to modify the amino acid chains to create products that increase skin penetration and decrease toxicity. Peptides are involved in the control of, among other things, inflammation, the creation of melanin, and protein synthesis, so creating synthetic peptides can have wide ranging effects. The potential for the use of peptide ingredients in cosmetics will only continue to grow as researchers uncover many other uses for this fascinating group of ingredients.
So what does this all mean to the consumer? It means that peptides are here to stay and their efficacy will only increase as more research is done. There have been studies that show marked improvement in wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, and firmness within one to twelve weeks of use, but this all depends on the overall health of the skin and the depth of the wrinkles. Peptides require a commitment from the consumer or the skin will return to its former condition. This means a daily use of peptide containing products to maintain the increased production of collagen. We are really very fortunate to have products available to us that benefit the skin and have scientific research to prove it. Skincare will only continue to improve as more and more research is accomplished.
Researchers are continuing to modify the amino acid chains to create products that increase skin penetration and decrease toxicity. Peptides are involved in the control of, among other things, inflammation, the creation of melanin, and protein synthesis, so creating synthetic peptides can have wide ranging effects. The potential for the use of peptide ingredients in cosmetics will only continue to grow as researchers uncover many other uses for this fascinating group of ingredients.
So what does this all mean to the consumer? It means that peptides are here to stay and their efficacy will only increase as more research is done. There have been studies that show marked improvement in wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, and firmness within one to twelve weeks of use, but this all depends on the overall health of the skin and the depth of the wrinkles. Peptides require a commitment from the consumer or the skin will return to its former condition. This means a daily use of peptide containing products to maintain the increased production of collagen. We are really very fortunate to have products available to us that benefit the skin and have scientific research to prove it. Skincare will only continue to improve as more and more research is accomplished.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Effective Ingredients in Sunscreens
What are the causes of wrinkles? The number one cause is the sun, the source of energy for all of life on earth, the object of worship of ancient religions. As much as we need the sun, we need to protect ourselves from its ultraviolet rays. Presently, the only known benefit from UV light on the skin is the conversion of pre-vitamin D to D3. Vitamin D has long been known as the Vitamin to cure rickets, but today it is known to do so much more than that. Vitamin D controls the absorption of calcium to build stronger bones and teeth, and Vitamin D helps maintain muscle strength. Clearly, there are benefits from the sun but the detrimental effects to our body outweigh these benefits. Wearing sunscreen may increase your concern about receiving enough Vitamin D. Choosing a supplement containing D3 is all that is needed to allay those fears. Wearing a sunscreen with broad spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays is the most important tool in the fight against aging skin and against skin cancer. According to the Sun Safety Alliance, a child born in 2000 has a 1 in 75 chance of developing skin cancer in his or her lifetime. Approximately 70 percent of American adults do not use sun-protective measures. Ratings on sunscreens should be changing soon showing both the UVB rating which is what we see now and also the UVA rating. The UVB rays are the burning rays and UVA rays are the aging rays so a UVA rating would be very beneficial to the consumer. Currently, the sunscreen manufacturers have temporarily postponed the passing of this new FDA labeling requirement due to the increased cost associated with changing all of their labels and the testing required to prove the UVA rating. The consumer should benefit greatly when this new requirement is passed.
What Sun Protection Factor (SPF) rating should you use? Well, that depends on your skin type and how much actual sunscreen you are applying. Most of us use about half the amount of sunscreen required to produce the SPF rating of the sunscreen. You should use about one tablespoon of sunscreen on your face alone. How many of us use that much? Your body requires about one and one half fluid ounces or about a jigger's worth of sunscreen. Since most of us do not use the appropriate amount, either use more or choose a higher rating to get the best coverage. Sunscreen should be applied every 2 hours or immediately after swimming or perspiring. Oh, just a note for menopausal women, your skin is especially susceptible to the sun. As you age, the natural protection from the sun produced in our bodies decreases so using a sunscreen is even more crucial.
Sunscreens containing Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide are sun blockers and considered broad spectrum protecting against UVA and UVB rays. They reflect the sunlight away from the skin, but many people find them undesirable to use because of a white residue that is typically left on the skin, but the newer sunscreens that use Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide have really improved this problem To be considered broad spectrum protection the concentration of either Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide should be 7%. Both of these ingredients are considered to be very safe and effective.
Avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789), Mexoryl, and Oxybenzone are chemical sunscreens that are considered effective for protection against UVA and UVB rays. They do not physically reflect sunlight, but they act chemically by absorbing the sun's rays before they cause damage and are considered sunscreens not sunblocks. Since Avobenzone degrades upon exposure to the sun, it is best used in combination with Oxybenzone better known as Helioplex. The addition of Oxybenzone allows the Avobenzone to remain stable thereby increasing its efficacy. The Helioplex combination creates a broad spectrum sunscreen. Mexoryl is not degraded by exposure to the sun, so it is more stable than Avobenzone and it absorbs both UVA and UVB rays. Becoming familiar with the ingredients in sunscreens allows the user to choose a sunscreen that will provide the best UV coverage. Ultimately, the use of a sunscreen is crucial to protect the skin from cancer causing rays as well as the first line of defense in the fight against aging.
It is never too late to use sunscreens. The consumer has many choices available when choosing a sunscreen. Finding the sunscreen that works with your skin type whether it is a foam, spray, gel, or cream that contains the ingredients that protect you from UVA and UVB rays is the most important product you can apply to your skin. Resolve to start a healthy skincare regimen today. Use sunscreen on a daily basis.
What Sun Protection Factor (SPF) rating should you use? Well, that depends on your skin type and how much actual sunscreen you are applying. Most of us use about half the amount of sunscreen required to produce the SPF rating of the sunscreen. You should use about one tablespoon of sunscreen on your face alone. How many of us use that much? Your body requires about one and one half fluid ounces or about a jigger's worth of sunscreen. Since most of us do not use the appropriate amount, either use more or choose a higher rating to get the best coverage. Sunscreen should be applied every 2 hours or immediately after swimming or perspiring. Oh, just a note for menopausal women, your skin is especially susceptible to the sun. As you age, the natural protection from the sun produced in our bodies decreases so using a sunscreen is even more crucial.
Sunscreens containing Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide are sun blockers and considered broad spectrum protecting against UVA and UVB rays. They reflect the sunlight away from the skin, but many people find them undesirable to use because of a white residue that is typically left on the skin, but the newer sunscreens that use Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide have really improved this problem To be considered broad spectrum protection the concentration of either Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide should be 7%. Both of these ingredients are considered to be very safe and effective.
Avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789), Mexoryl, and Oxybenzone are chemical sunscreens that are considered effective for protection against UVA and UVB rays. They do not physically reflect sunlight, but they act chemically by absorbing the sun's rays before they cause damage and are considered sunscreens not sunblocks. Since Avobenzone degrades upon exposure to the sun, it is best used in combination with Oxybenzone better known as Helioplex. The addition of Oxybenzone allows the Avobenzone to remain stable thereby increasing its efficacy. The Helioplex combination creates a broad spectrum sunscreen. Mexoryl is not degraded by exposure to the sun, so it is more stable than Avobenzone and it absorbs both UVA and UVB rays. Becoming familiar with the ingredients in sunscreens allows the user to choose a sunscreen that will provide the best UV coverage. Ultimately, the use of a sunscreen is crucial to protect the skin from cancer causing rays as well as the first line of defense in the fight against aging.
It is never too late to use sunscreens. The consumer has many choices available when choosing a sunscreen. Finding the sunscreen that works with your skin type whether it is a foam, spray, gel, or cream that contains the ingredients that protect you from UVA and UVB rays is the most important product you can apply to your skin. Resolve to start a healthy skincare regimen today. Use sunscreen on a daily basis.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Physiology of the Skin: The basics for understanding anti-aging cosmeceuticals
The skin is the largest organ of the body and it is constantly changing throughout your life. It provides a physical barrier protecting the body from the environment. It is seen by everyone we meet and physical beauty is many times based on the appearance of your skin. We examine our skin each morning in the mirror afraid that we will find the inevitable fine line, wrinkle, discoloration, etc. all pointing to signs of aging. Fortunately, we now have at our disposal products that contain ingredients that actually are effective in fighting the signs of aging. First a basic understanding of the anatomy of the skin is needed in order for you to choose the products with ingredients that are the most beneficial for aging skin.
The basic structure of the skin contains two layers. The outermost layer is the epidermis serving as a physical and chemical barrier to the interior body and exterior environment. The second layer is the dermis which provides the structural support of the skin. The two layers work together as one unit for each layer affects the other.
The epidermis consists of stacked layers of cells that are constantly changing. The cells are connected by protein bridges called desmosomes. The cells begin in the lowest layer of the epidermis called the basal layer. As the cells mature they move up through the layers of the epidermis changing in chemical and physical composition. When the cells reach their destination, the stratum corneum, they are called corneocytes. They lack a nucleus and hover between life and death causing them to be easily sloughed off with mild force. When they are sloughed off they are replaced by underlying cells that rise up to take its place. This is how exfoliation is beneficial to the skin. It removes corneocytes signally new cells to move up through the layers. The corneocyte contains a protein called keratin that has water retaining properties. The corneocyte is surrounded by a protein envelope and insoluble oily substances called lipids. The configuration of the lipids around the corneocytes creates an impermeable barrier for the passage of water out of the stratum corneum and prevents release of the natural moisturizing factors from the surface of the skin. The natural moisturizing factors are chemicals such as urea, lactic acid, salts, and free amino acids. The formulation of skincare products must take into account this water loving and water resisting property of the skin in order to be absorbed through the skin layers.
The other layer is the dermis which contains among other things blood vessels, lymphatic vessels, and nerves. It is 90% of the skin mass and the greatest part of physical strength. It contains the structural proteins, collagen and elastin. Collagen provides the skin strength and elastin provides the “spring and snap” to the skin. Collagen production starts decreasing after the age of 25 so the importance of using products that stimulate collagen production begins at a very early age. Collagen and elastin are in a fluid matrix called the ground substance. This matrix is made up of water and a class of large molecules known as proteoglycans which serve to maintain water balance in the dermis, add support for other dermal components, and act as a matrix for cell migration, metabolism, and growth. Chemically proteoglycans are made up of a polysaccharide and a protein. The polysaccharide is called glycosaminoglycan of which hyaluronic acid is the most well known. Because lipids decrease sharply after the age of 40, the skin is more susceptible to dry skin.
This is a very basic discussion of the skin and some of its components. The best skincare products are formulated understanding these components of the skin. More skin anatomy will follow when the individual ingredients are discussed.
The basic structure of the skin contains two layers. The outermost layer is the epidermis serving as a physical and chemical barrier to the interior body and exterior environment. The second layer is the dermis which provides the structural support of the skin. The two layers work together as one unit for each layer affects the other.
The epidermis consists of stacked layers of cells that are constantly changing. The cells are connected by protein bridges called desmosomes. The cells begin in the lowest layer of the epidermis called the basal layer. As the cells mature they move up through the layers of the epidermis changing in chemical and physical composition. When the cells reach their destination, the stratum corneum, they are called corneocytes. They lack a nucleus and hover between life and death causing them to be easily sloughed off with mild force. When they are sloughed off they are replaced by underlying cells that rise up to take its place. This is how exfoliation is beneficial to the skin. It removes corneocytes signally new cells to move up through the layers. The corneocyte contains a protein called keratin that has water retaining properties. The corneocyte is surrounded by a protein envelope and insoluble oily substances called lipids. The configuration of the lipids around the corneocytes creates an impermeable barrier for the passage of water out of the stratum corneum and prevents release of the natural moisturizing factors from the surface of the skin. The natural moisturizing factors are chemicals such as urea, lactic acid, salts, and free amino acids. The formulation of skincare products must take into account this water loving and water resisting property of the skin in order to be absorbed through the skin layers.
The other layer is the dermis which contains among other things blood vessels, lymphatic vessels, and nerves. It is 90% of the skin mass and the greatest part of physical strength. It contains the structural proteins, collagen and elastin. Collagen provides the skin strength and elastin provides the “spring and snap” to the skin. Collagen production starts decreasing after the age of 25 so the importance of using products that stimulate collagen production begins at a very early age. Collagen and elastin are in a fluid matrix called the ground substance. This matrix is made up of water and a class of large molecules known as proteoglycans which serve to maintain water balance in the dermis, add support for other dermal components, and act as a matrix for cell migration, metabolism, and growth. Chemically proteoglycans are made up of a polysaccharide and a protein. The polysaccharide is called glycosaminoglycan of which hyaluronic acid is the most well known. Because lipids decrease sharply after the age of 40, the skin is more susceptible to dry skin.
This is a very basic discussion of the skin and some of its components. The best skincare products are formulated understanding these components of the skin. More skin anatomy will follow when the individual ingredients are discussed.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
