Hydroxy acids are used extensively in anti-aging products for their ability to decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and to improve skin texture. There are two types of hydroxy acids -alpha and beta. Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, is the smallest and the most widely recognized alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), but there are several others that are used. These include lactic acid which is derived from milk and is also a natural component of skin, malic acid which is derived from almonds, tataric acid which is derived from grapes, and citric acid which is derived from oranges and lemons. AHA's have been used for thousands of years to rejuvenate the skin. Cleopatra supposedly bathed in sour milk (lactic acid) to improve her complexion. There is only one beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and that is salicylic acid which is derived from the bark of a willow tree.
The main difference in beta hydroxy acids and alpha hydroxy acids is their skin permeability. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble and beta hydroxy acids are lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acids are able to penetrate oil filled pores which contain sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up in the pore. Alpha hydroxy acids are primarily used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are less likely. Beta hydroxy acids are commonly used in acne preparations in concentrations of 1 to 2 percent. Salicylic acid is a large molecule so it needs to be absorbed in order to be effective so cleansers containing salicylic acid are not very effective.
AHA's are used for their exfoliating properties by dissolving the bond that holds the damaged upper layers of the skin allowing the release of the dead skin cells resulting in an improved skin texture and a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles. This is a normal process of the skin, known as desquamation, but as we age this cell turnover becomes uneven and even slows down making the skin look dull and uneven increasing the thickness of the stratum corneum or top layer of skin. To keep these skin cells in a constant state of motion, we need to exfoliate on a regular basis. This allows the skin to maintain a healthy, younger look by placing the new cells on the outermost layer of skin. Several months of continual use are needed to see visible results. There are several strengths of AHA's that are used, but only strengths up to 10% are found in consumer products. Strengths as high as 30% are used as peels in a professional setting and these agents rapidly thin the stratum corneum. Peels go deeper into the skin beneath the epidermis into the dermis which creates a more rapid level of new cell growth. Salicylic acid peels are also available typically in concentrations of 20 to 30%.
AHA's are not without their side effects. These side effects include burning, itching, reddening, pain, and possibly scarring. Even though these products decrease the signs of photo aging, they paradoxically increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun requiring the use of a sunscreen containing both UVA and UVB protection. The pH of AHA's is required by the FDA to be at least 3.5 or higher decreasing the stinging effect somewhat even though these products due tend to sting upon application. Beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is a derivative of aspirin making it less irritating than alpha hydroxy acids because salicylic acid retains some of the anti-inflammatory properties of aspirin. Salicylic acid can still cause skin irritation and because it is a derivative of aspirin it should not be used by pregnant or lactating women or those that are allergic to aspirin. Consumers with sensitive skin that cannot tolerate AHA's may find they can use salicylic acid products with good results; although, AHA's penetrate the skin deeper producing better anti-aging results. A product containing an AHA or BHA should be part of your daily skincare regimen to promote exfoliation producing skin with a fresh youthful look.
Showing posts with label anti-aging. Show all posts
Showing posts with label anti-aging. Show all posts
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Peptides in Anti-Aging Skincare Products Real Hope or Just Hype?
Peptides have become increasingly more popular in anti-aging skincare products. They are short chain amino acids that are components of larger proteins, such as collagen. They have been studied for more than fifty years and the benefits of applying them to the skin were discovered during research for wound healing. Amino acids are the building blocks of DNA, RNA, cells, and even play a significant role in cellular regeneration. When your skin is exposed to the sun, it is damaged but the skin works to repair the damage and even regenerates collagen but as we age the ability to regenerate collagen starts to dwindle. Our skin needs to be stimulated to make collagen as we age and peptides can mitigate this action. Peptides are small molecules, allowing them to penetrate the skin readily and quickly to stimulate collagen production resulting in smoother, more lifted looking skin. The sequence of amino acids and their chain structure determine how they function in the body. For example, Acetyl hexapeptide is known to elicit "Botox like" action by preventing muscle contraction and therefore the formation of wrinkles. Palmitoyl pentapeptide stimulates production of collagen thereby thickening the skin and plumping wrinkles from within. Acetyl dipeptide is used primarily in eye products because of its ability to improve circulation and to help the body clear away toxins making it especially beneficial for reducing under eye bags.
Researchers are continuing to modify the amino acid chains to create products that increase skin penetration and decrease toxicity. Peptides are involved in the control of, among other things, inflammation, the creation of melanin, and protein synthesis, so creating synthetic peptides can have wide ranging effects. The potential for the use of peptide ingredients in cosmetics will only continue to grow as researchers uncover many other uses for this fascinating group of ingredients.
So what does this all mean to the consumer? It means that peptides are here to stay and their efficacy will only increase as more research is done. There have been studies that show marked improvement in wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, and firmness within one to twelve weeks of use, but this all depends on the overall health of the skin and the depth of the wrinkles. Peptides require a commitment from the consumer or the skin will return to its former condition. This means a daily use of peptide containing products to maintain the increased production of collagen. We are really very fortunate to have products available to us that benefit the skin and have scientific research to prove it. Skincare will only continue to improve as more and more research is accomplished.
Researchers are continuing to modify the amino acid chains to create products that increase skin penetration and decrease toxicity. Peptides are involved in the control of, among other things, inflammation, the creation of melanin, and protein synthesis, so creating synthetic peptides can have wide ranging effects. The potential for the use of peptide ingredients in cosmetics will only continue to grow as researchers uncover many other uses for this fascinating group of ingredients.
So what does this all mean to the consumer? It means that peptides are here to stay and their efficacy will only increase as more research is done. There have been studies that show marked improvement in wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, and firmness within one to twelve weeks of use, but this all depends on the overall health of the skin and the depth of the wrinkles. Peptides require a commitment from the consumer or the skin will return to its former condition. This means a daily use of peptide containing products to maintain the increased production of collagen. We are really very fortunate to have products available to us that benefit the skin and have scientific research to prove it. Skincare will only continue to improve as more and more research is accomplished.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Effective Ingredients in Sunscreens
What are the causes of wrinkles? The number one cause is the sun, the source of energy for all of life on earth, the object of worship of ancient religions. As much as we need the sun, we need to protect ourselves from its ultraviolet rays. Presently, the only known benefit from UV light on the skin is the conversion of pre-vitamin D to D3. Vitamin D has long been known as the Vitamin to cure rickets, but today it is known to do so much more than that. Vitamin D controls the absorption of calcium to build stronger bones and teeth, and Vitamin D helps maintain muscle strength. Clearly, there are benefits from the sun but the detrimental effects to our body outweigh these benefits. Wearing sunscreen may increase your concern about receiving enough Vitamin D. Choosing a supplement containing D3 is all that is needed to allay those fears. Wearing a sunscreen with broad spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays is the most important tool in the fight against aging skin and against skin cancer. According to the Sun Safety Alliance, a child born in 2000 has a 1 in 75 chance of developing skin cancer in his or her lifetime. Approximately 70 percent of American adults do not use sun-protective measures. Ratings on sunscreens should be changing soon showing both the UVB rating which is what we see now and also the UVA rating. The UVB rays are the burning rays and UVA rays are the aging rays so a UVA rating would be very beneficial to the consumer. Currently, the sunscreen manufacturers have temporarily postponed the passing of this new FDA labeling requirement due to the increased cost associated with changing all of their labels and the testing required to prove the UVA rating. The consumer should benefit greatly when this new requirement is passed.
What Sun Protection Factor (SPF) rating should you use? Well, that depends on your skin type and how much actual sunscreen you are applying. Most of us use about half the amount of sunscreen required to produce the SPF rating of the sunscreen. You should use about one tablespoon of sunscreen on your face alone. How many of us use that much? Your body requires about one and one half fluid ounces or about a jigger's worth of sunscreen. Since most of us do not use the appropriate amount, either use more or choose a higher rating to get the best coverage. Sunscreen should be applied every 2 hours or immediately after swimming or perspiring. Oh, just a note for menopausal women, your skin is especially susceptible to the sun. As you age, the natural protection from the sun produced in our bodies decreases so using a sunscreen is even more crucial.
Sunscreens containing Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide are sun blockers and considered broad spectrum protecting against UVA and UVB rays. They reflect the sunlight away from the skin, but many people find them undesirable to use because of a white residue that is typically left on the skin, but the newer sunscreens that use Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide have really improved this problem To be considered broad spectrum protection the concentration of either Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide should be 7%. Both of these ingredients are considered to be very safe and effective.
Avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789), Mexoryl, and Oxybenzone are chemical sunscreens that are considered effective for protection against UVA and UVB rays. They do not physically reflect sunlight, but they act chemically by absorbing the sun's rays before they cause damage and are considered sunscreens not sunblocks. Since Avobenzone degrades upon exposure to the sun, it is best used in combination with Oxybenzone better known as Helioplex. The addition of Oxybenzone allows the Avobenzone to remain stable thereby increasing its efficacy. The Helioplex combination creates a broad spectrum sunscreen. Mexoryl is not degraded by exposure to the sun, so it is more stable than Avobenzone and it absorbs both UVA and UVB rays. Becoming familiar with the ingredients in sunscreens allows the user to choose a sunscreen that will provide the best UV coverage. Ultimately, the use of a sunscreen is crucial to protect the skin from cancer causing rays as well as the first line of defense in the fight against aging.
It is never too late to use sunscreens. The consumer has many choices available when choosing a sunscreen. Finding the sunscreen that works with your skin type whether it is a foam, spray, gel, or cream that contains the ingredients that protect you from UVA and UVB rays is the most important product you can apply to your skin. Resolve to start a healthy skincare regimen today. Use sunscreen on a daily basis.
What Sun Protection Factor (SPF) rating should you use? Well, that depends on your skin type and how much actual sunscreen you are applying. Most of us use about half the amount of sunscreen required to produce the SPF rating of the sunscreen. You should use about one tablespoon of sunscreen on your face alone. How many of us use that much? Your body requires about one and one half fluid ounces or about a jigger's worth of sunscreen. Since most of us do not use the appropriate amount, either use more or choose a higher rating to get the best coverage. Sunscreen should be applied every 2 hours or immediately after swimming or perspiring. Oh, just a note for menopausal women, your skin is especially susceptible to the sun. As you age, the natural protection from the sun produced in our bodies decreases so using a sunscreen is even more crucial.
Sunscreens containing Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide are sun blockers and considered broad spectrum protecting against UVA and UVB rays. They reflect the sunlight away from the skin, but many people find them undesirable to use because of a white residue that is typically left on the skin, but the newer sunscreens that use Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide have really improved this problem To be considered broad spectrum protection the concentration of either Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide should be 7%. Both of these ingredients are considered to be very safe and effective.
Avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789), Mexoryl, and Oxybenzone are chemical sunscreens that are considered effective for protection against UVA and UVB rays. They do not physically reflect sunlight, but they act chemically by absorbing the sun's rays before they cause damage and are considered sunscreens not sunblocks. Since Avobenzone degrades upon exposure to the sun, it is best used in combination with Oxybenzone better known as Helioplex. The addition of Oxybenzone allows the Avobenzone to remain stable thereby increasing its efficacy. The Helioplex combination creates a broad spectrum sunscreen. Mexoryl is not degraded by exposure to the sun, so it is more stable than Avobenzone and it absorbs both UVA and UVB rays. Becoming familiar with the ingredients in sunscreens allows the user to choose a sunscreen that will provide the best UV coverage. Ultimately, the use of a sunscreen is crucial to protect the skin from cancer causing rays as well as the first line of defense in the fight against aging.
It is never too late to use sunscreens. The consumer has many choices available when choosing a sunscreen. Finding the sunscreen that works with your skin type whether it is a foam, spray, gel, or cream that contains the ingredients that protect you from UVA and UVB rays is the most important product you can apply to your skin. Resolve to start a healthy skincare regimen today. Use sunscreen on a daily basis.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Physiology of the Skin: The basics for understanding anti-aging cosmeceuticals
The skin is the largest organ of the body and it is constantly changing throughout your life. It provides a physical barrier protecting the body from the environment. It is seen by everyone we meet and physical beauty is many times based on the appearance of your skin. We examine our skin each morning in the mirror afraid that we will find the inevitable fine line, wrinkle, discoloration, etc. all pointing to signs of aging. Fortunately, we now have at our disposal products that contain ingredients that actually are effective in fighting the signs of aging. First a basic understanding of the anatomy of the skin is needed in order for you to choose the products with ingredients that are the most beneficial for aging skin.
The basic structure of the skin contains two layers. The outermost layer is the epidermis serving as a physical and chemical barrier to the interior body and exterior environment. The second layer is the dermis which provides the structural support of the skin. The two layers work together as one unit for each layer affects the other.
The epidermis consists of stacked layers of cells that are constantly changing. The cells are connected by protein bridges called desmosomes. The cells begin in the lowest layer of the epidermis called the basal layer. As the cells mature they move up through the layers of the epidermis changing in chemical and physical composition. When the cells reach their destination, the stratum corneum, they are called corneocytes. They lack a nucleus and hover between life and death causing them to be easily sloughed off with mild force. When they are sloughed off they are replaced by underlying cells that rise up to take its place. This is how exfoliation is beneficial to the skin. It removes corneocytes signally new cells to move up through the layers. The corneocyte contains a protein called keratin that has water retaining properties. The corneocyte is surrounded by a protein envelope and insoluble oily substances called lipids. The configuration of the lipids around the corneocytes creates an impermeable barrier for the passage of water out of the stratum corneum and prevents release of the natural moisturizing factors from the surface of the skin. The natural moisturizing factors are chemicals such as urea, lactic acid, salts, and free amino acids. The formulation of skincare products must take into account this water loving and water resisting property of the skin in order to be absorbed through the skin layers.
The other layer is the dermis which contains among other things blood vessels, lymphatic vessels, and nerves. It is 90% of the skin mass and the greatest part of physical strength. It contains the structural proteins, collagen and elastin. Collagen provides the skin strength and elastin provides the “spring and snap” to the skin. Collagen production starts decreasing after the age of 25 so the importance of using products that stimulate collagen production begins at a very early age. Collagen and elastin are in a fluid matrix called the ground substance. This matrix is made up of water and a class of large molecules known as proteoglycans which serve to maintain water balance in the dermis, add support for other dermal components, and act as a matrix for cell migration, metabolism, and growth. Chemically proteoglycans are made up of a polysaccharide and a protein. The polysaccharide is called glycosaminoglycan of which hyaluronic acid is the most well known. Because lipids decrease sharply after the age of 40, the skin is more susceptible to dry skin.
This is a very basic discussion of the skin and some of its components. The best skincare products are formulated understanding these components of the skin. More skin anatomy will follow when the individual ingredients are discussed.
The basic structure of the skin contains two layers. The outermost layer is the epidermis serving as a physical and chemical barrier to the interior body and exterior environment. The second layer is the dermis which provides the structural support of the skin. The two layers work together as one unit for each layer affects the other.
The epidermis consists of stacked layers of cells that are constantly changing. The cells are connected by protein bridges called desmosomes. The cells begin in the lowest layer of the epidermis called the basal layer. As the cells mature they move up through the layers of the epidermis changing in chemical and physical composition. When the cells reach their destination, the stratum corneum, they are called corneocytes. They lack a nucleus and hover between life and death causing them to be easily sloughed off with mild force. When they are sloughed off they are replaced by underlying cells that rise up to take its place. This is how exfoliation is beneficial to the skin. It removes corneocytes signally new cells to move up through the layers. The corneocyte contains a protein called keratin that has water retaining properties. The corneocyte is surrounded by a protein envelope and insoluble oily substances called lipids. The configuration of the lipids around the corneocytes creates an impermeable barrier for the passage of water out of the stratum corneum and prevents release of the natural moisturizing factors from the surface of the skin. The natural moisturizing factors are chemicals such as urea, lactic acid, salts, and free amino acids. The formulation of skincare products must take into account this water loving and water resisting property of the skin in order to be absorbed through the skin layers.
The other layer is the dermis which contains among other things blood vessels, lymphatic vessels, and nerves. It is 90% of the skin mass and the greatest part of physical strength. It contains the structural proteins, collagen and elastin. Collagen provides the skin strength and elastin provides the “spring and snap” to the skin. Collagen production starts decreasing after the age of 25 so the importance of using products that stimulate collagen production begins at a very early age. Collagen and elastin are in a fluid matrix called the ground substance. This matrix is made up of water and a class of large molecules known as proteoglycans which serve to maintain water balance in the dermis, add support for other dermal components, and act as a matrix for cell migration, metabolism, and growth. Chemically proteoglycans are made up of a polysaccharide and a protein. The polysaccharide is called glycosaminoglycan of which hyaluronic acid is the most well known. Because lipids decrease sharply after the age of 40, the skin is more susceptible to dry skin.
This is a very basic discussion of the skin and some of its components. The best skincare products are formulated understanding these components of the skin. More skin anatomy will follow when the individual ingredients are discussed.
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