Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is very unstable and can be easily oxidized upon exposure to light and oxygen. Therefore, a container that prevents exposure to the sun and air is crucial in maintaining Vitamin C potency. Once it is oxidized Vitamin C is rendered ineffective. A change in color is indicative of expired Vitamin C. The strengths range from 5% to 15%. Concentrations greater than 15% tend to be irritating to the skin. A skincare regimen including a Vitamin C product is very beneficial in aiding the fight against aging skin.
Friday, November 13, 2009
The Power of Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid can also be injected by a trained professional and will plump and smooth wrinkles in just one treatment. Some commercial names for these fillers are Juvederm, Perlane, and Resylane. The injectable treatment works very well, but maintenance is required about every 6 to 12 months. Side effects include swelling, bruising, discoloration, and pain at the injection site but these side effects subside after a few days. Since Hyaluronic Acid occurs naturally in the body, there is little chance that it would cause an allergic reaction or a rejection to the filler. ABC News reported a village in Japan whose residents consumed a diet rich in hyaluronic acid indicating a possible link to hyaluronic acid and longevity.
Hyaluronic Acid may not be the "fountain of youth" but it is a wonderful ingredient in the fight against wrinkles and aging skin. Moisturizers containing hyaluronic acid certainly merit their place as a main stay in anti-aging skincare products.
Monday, October 26, 2009
Vitamin E - Potent Antioxidant
When applied topically Vitamin E has two major functions: to protect the skin from UV light damage and maintain the skin's barrier function. Even a little UV exposure is able to deplete Vitamin E content thereby reducing the antioxidant protection. This occurs even without reddening of the skin. The damaged skin has the ability to return the levels of Vitamin E to almost baseline within 24 hours, but a lot of epidermal damage can occur within that time period. Vitamin E should be used in sunscreens because of its ability to reduce free radical damage in the skin thus reducing the severity of sunburn. It can be used both before and after the skin's exposure to the sun. Vitamin E is best used in combination with other antioxidants such as Vitamin C, green tea, and coenzyme Q10.
Vitamin E is the major lipid-soluble antioxidant in the cell antioxidant defense system. Biologically Vitamin E protects fatty acids and other components of cell membranes and LDL from oxidation by free radicals. When taken orally or used topically Vitamin E can help the body in its fight against free radicals. Vitamin E can help slow down the aging process and is a great preventive against vascular damage.
Vitamin E should be incorporated into your skin care treatment plan to provide a powerful antioxidant that is crucial in fighting skin aging. Free radical damage leads to a compromised barrier function leading to water loss and bacterial invasion hindering the skin's ability to function normally. Vitamin E has a role in preventing these problems. It is highly recommended that you add a product containing Vitamin E to your skin care arsenal.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
pH And Skincare Products How Do They Relate
The pH of healthy skin is slightly acidic in the range of 4.5-6. This area of the skin is referred to as the acid mantle. The acid mantle is an imperceptible thin viscous fluid that is important for the maintenance of the overall health of skin and hair. This slightly acidic pH allows the acid mantle to fight off bacteria, fungus, and pollutants. Stress and hormonal changes can cause the acid mantle to break down creating an alkaline environment. If the skin becomes too basic, it can become dry and irritated decreasing its ability to fight off bacteria leading to blemishes and breakouts. Most commercial cleansers have a pH of 8 or more and most soaps have a pH of 9.0-11. These basic products strip away the protective acid mantle layer creating a potentially toxic environment.
Optimally skincare products should have a pH close to that of your own skin. Alpha hydroxy acid products must have a lower pH in order to be effective in exfoliating the skin. As a consumer you should be aware of the pH of the skincare products that you use so that you will know what effect the products have on your skin. Choose products with the appropriate pH for the skincare result that you desire the product to produce.
Friday, September 25, 2009
Hyperpigmentation
One example of hyperpigmentation is called melasma, also known as chloasma, which is characterized by brown patches usually occuring on the forehead, temples, and cheeks. Melasma can occur in pregnant women and in women who are taking oral contraceptives and is sometimes called the "mask of pregnancy", but it can occur in men as well. Melasma is more common and lasts longer in people with dark skin. Another example of hyperpigmentation is lentigines which are also called "liver spots" and they typically occur on the face and back of the hands. Lentigines are flat brown spots that are oval in shape. Chronic sun exposure is the major cause of solar lentigines. Middle age is typically the first time lentigines are noticed and they increase in number with age. Lentigines are an independent risk factor for melanoma even though a progression from lentigines to melanoma has not been established.
The topical treatments for hyperpigmentation consist mostly of chemicals that inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase, which forms pigment. Some of these chemicals used to treat hyperpigmentation are hydroquinone, kojic acid, vitamin C, azelaic acid, and arbutin. Hydroquinone has been under scrutiny for its mutagenic effect and its ability to darken the skin after prolonged use. It is banned in Japan and the European Union. Kojic acid was discovered by accident when scientists in Japan were fermenting malted rice to make sake and kojic acid was a by-product. Azelaic acid which is found in wheat and barley is a weak inhibitor of tyrosinase so a high concentration, such as 15%, is needed to produce lightening. Arbutin is purified from mulberry or bearberry extract and is almost chemically identical to hydroquinone with the addition of a sugar molecule. Once it comes in contact with the skin the sugar is cleaved and hydroquinone is slowly released. Arbutin takes a few weeks longer to work than hydroquinone, but it causes less irritation. Vitamin A derivatives such as retinol, alpha hydroxy acids, and beta hydroxy acids are often used in conjunction with lighteners because they increase skin cell turnover which in turn speeds the removal of pigment granules. Niacinamide is also an effective skin lightener. Its mechanism of action is unrelated to the enzyme tyrosinase. Niacinamide prohibits the transfer of melanosomes (the pigment containing organelle) to skin cells inhibiting the production of discolored cells.
All of these treatments require two to three months before results can be seen so patience is needed. Your expectations should be reasonable since these products will lighten but not erase the spots. They are most effective in light skinned people. Lighteners can make the skin more sensitive to the sun so a sunscreen is required while using skin lightening products. Sunscreens are the first defense against skin aging in general, but particularly to prevent hyperpigmentation so start using sunscreens today to protect your skin for tomorrow.
Thursday, September 17, 2009
The Science of Aging Skin
Using products that contain the most effective ingredients such as glycolic acid, retinol, peptides, and vitamin c among others is the best tool in fighting the aging process. Combining effective products with professional facial care will generate the best benefits for your skin as you age. It is never too late to start a skin care program, but the earlier you start the better your skin will age. Start today making favorable lifestyle choices combined with high quality products and your skin will benefit.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Cellulite
The skin is connected to the underlying muscle by fibrous cords. These cords connect the skin to deeper structures with the fat cells lying in between . The cords pull the skin down, but as the fat cells accumulate they push up against the skin creating the dimpling effect seen as cellulite. It is commonly seen in families so a strong genetic component is definitely a contributing factor for developing cellulite. Even though weight is not necessarily a factor in cellulite development, maintaining a normal weight will decrease the appearance of cellulite. Also, increasing muscle tone will lessen the appearance of cellulite as well. Liposuction is not an alternative for cellulite treatment and may actually increase its appearance. According to a study recently published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal, cellulite may be improved with a combination of laser treatment and fat transplantation. Laser treatment on the affected area proved to tighten the skin by stimulating collagen production and on a deeper level the laser proved to reduce fatty tissue. The fat from the patient was transplanted by injection into the dimpled areas to plump the skin. This was a small study, but had promising results. More research will be performed to obtain final conclusions. Unfortunately, there are not really any effective topical treatments for reducing cellulite. The best treatments contain collagen building ingredients such as Retinol and Vitamin C, but it takes several weeks to see any benefit from these products. Much research is being done in the cellulite fight so keep informed for the latest innovations. Since the public is clamoring for an effective cellulite treatment, researchers are bound to find something to alleviate this unsightly condition.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids - Their Benefits in Skincare Products
The main difference in beta hydroxy acids and alpha hydroxy acids is their skin permeability. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble and beta hydroxy acids are lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acids are able to penetrate oil filled pores which contain sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up in the pore. Alpha hydroxy acids are primarily used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are less likely. Beta hydroxy acids are commonly used in acne preparations in concentrations of 1 to 2 percent. Salicylic acid is a large molecule so it needs to be absorbed in order to be effective so cleansers containing salicylic acid are not very effective.
AHA's are used for their exfoliating properties by dissolving the bond that holds the damaged upper layers of the skin allowing the release of the dead skin cells resulting in an improved skin texture and a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles. This is a normal process of the skin, known as desquamation, but as we age this cell turnover becomes uneven and even slows down making the skin look dull and uneven increasing the thickness of the stratum corneum or top layer of skin. To keep these skin cells in a constant state of motion, we need to exfoliate on a regular basis. This allows the skin to maintain a healthy, younger look by placing the new cells on the outermost layer of skin. Several months of continual use are needed to see visible results. There are several strengths of AHA's that are used, but only strengths up to 10% are found in consumer products. Strengths as high as 30% are used as peels in a professional setting and these agents rapidly thin the stratum corneum. Peels go deeper into the skin beneath the epidermis into the dermis which creates a more rapid level of new cell growth. Salicylic acid peels are also available typically in concentrations of 20 to 30%.
AHA's are not without their side effects. These side effects include burning, itching, reddening, pain, and possibly scarring. Even though these products decrease the signs of photo aging, they paradoxically increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun requiring the use of a sunscreen containing both UVA and UVB protection. The pH of AHA's is required by the FDA to be at least 3.5 or higher decreasing the stinging effect somewhat even though these products due tend to sting upon application. Beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is a derivative of aspirin making it less irritating than alpha hydroxy acids because salicylic acid retains some of the anti-inflammatory properties of aspirin. Salicylic acid can still cause skin irritation and because it is a derivative of aspirin it should not be used by pregnant or lactating women or those that are allergic to aspirin. Consumers with sensitive skin that cannot tolerate AHA's may find they can use salicylic acid products with good results; although, AHA's penetrate the skin deeper producing better anti-aging results. A product containing an AHA or BHA should be part of your daily skincare regimen to promote exfoliation producing skin with a fresh youthful look.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Peptides in Anti-Aging Skincare Products Real Hope or Just Hype?
Researchers are continuing to modify the amino acid chains to create products that increase skin penetration and decrease toxicity. Peptides are involved in the control of, among other things, inflammation, the creation of melanin, and protein synthesis, so creating synthetic peptides can have wide ranging effects. The potential for the use of peptide ingredients in cosmetics will only continue to grow as researchers uncover many other uses for this fascinating group of ingredients.
So what does this all mean to the consumer? It means that peptides are here to stay and their efficacy will only increase as more research is done. There have been studies that show marked improvement in wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, and firmness within one to twelve weeks of use, but this all depends on the overall health of the skin and the depth of the wrinkles. Peptides require a commitment from the consumer or the skin will return to its former condition. This means a daily use of peptide containing products to maintain the increased production of collagen. We are really very fortunate to have products available to us that benefit the skin and have scientific research to prove it. Skincare will only continue to improve as more and more research is accomplished.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Effective Ingredients in Sunscreens
What Sun Protection Factor (SPF) rating should you use? Well, that depends on your skin type and how much actual sunscreen you are applying. Most of us use about half the amount of sunscreen required to produce the SPF rating of the sunscreen. You should use about one tablespoon of sunscreen on your face alone. How many of us use that much? Your body requires about one and one half fluid ounces or about a jigger's worth of sunscreen. Since most of us do not use the appropriate amount, either use more or choose a higher rating to get the best coverage. Sunscreen should be applied every 2 hours or immediately after swimming or perspiring. Oh, just a note for menopausal women, your skin is especially susceptible to the sun. As you age, the natural protection from the sun produced in our bodies decreases so using a sunscreen is even more crucial.
Sunscreens containing Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide are sun blockers and considered broad spectrum protecting against UVA and UVB rays. They reflect the sunlight away from the skin, but many people find them undesirable to use because of a white residue that is typically left on the skin, but the newer sunscreens that use Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide have really improved this problem To be considered broad spectrum protection the concentration of either Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide should be 7%. Both of these ingredients are considered to be very safe and effective.
Avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789), Mexoryl, and Oxybenzone are chemical sunscreens that are considered effective for protection against UVA and UVB rays. They do not physically reflect sunlight, but they act chemically by absorbing the sun's rays before they cause damage and are considered sunscreens not sunblocks. Since Avobenzone degrades upon exposure to the sun, it is best used in combination with Oxybenzone better known as Helioplex. The addition of Oxybenzone allows the Avobenzone to remain stable thereby increasing its efficacy. The Helioplex combination creates a broad spectrum sunscreen. Mexoryl is not degraded by exposure to the sun, so it is more stable than Avobenzone and it absorbs both UVA and UVB rays. Becoming familiar with the ingredients in sunscreens allows the user to choose a sunscreen that will provide the best UV coverage. Ultimately, the use of a sunscreen is crucial to protect the skin from cancer causing rays as well as the first line of defense in the fight against aging.
It is never too late to use sunscreens. The consumer has many choices available when choosing a sunscreen. Finding the sunscreen that works with your skin type whether it is a foam, spray, gel, or cream that contains the ingredients that protect you from UVA and UVB rays is the most important product you can apply to your skin. Resolve to start a healthy skincare regimen today. Use sunscreen on a daily basis.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Physiology of the Skin: The basics for understanding anti-aging cosmeceuticals
The basic structure of the skin contains two layers. The outermost layer is the epidermis serving as a physical and chemical barrier to the interior body and exterior environment. The second layer is the dermis which provides the structural support of the skin. The two layers work together as one unit for each layer affects the other.
The epidermis consists of stacked layers of cells that are constantly changing. The cells are connected by protein bridges called desmosomes. The cells begin in the lowest layer of the epidermis called the basal layer. As the cells mature they move up through the layers of the epidermis changing in chemical and physical composition. When the cells reach their destination, the stratum corneum, they are called corneocytes. They lack a nucleus and hover between life and death causing them to be easily sloughed off with mild force. When they are sloughed off they are replaced by underlying cells that rise up to take its place. This is how exfoliation is beneficial to the skin. It removes corneocytes signally new cells to move up through the layers. The corneocyte contains a protein called keratin that has water retaining properties. The corneocyte is surrounded by a protein envelope and insoluble oily substances called lipids. The configuration of the lipids around the corneocytes creates an impermeable barrier for the passage of water out of the stratum corneum and prevents release of the natural moisturizing factors from the surface of the skin. The natural moisturizing factors are chemicals such as urea, lactic acid, salts, and free amino acids. The formulation of skincare products must take into account this water loving and water resisting property of the skin in order to be absorbed through the skin layers.
The other layer is the dermis which contains among other things blood vessels, lymphatic vessels, and nerves. It is 90% of the skin mass and the greatest part of physical strength. It contains the structural proteins, collagen and elastin. Collagen provides the skin strength and elastin provides the “spring and snap” to the skin. Collagen production starts decreasing after the age of 25 so the importance of using products that stimulate collagen production begins at a very early age. Collagen and elastin are in a fluid matrix called the ground substance. This matrix is made up of water and a class of large molecules known as proteoglycans which serve to maintain water balance in the dermis, add support for other dermal components, and act as a matrix for cell migration, metabolism, and growth. Chemically proteoglycans are made up of a polysaccharide and a protein. The polysaccharide is called glycosaminoglycan of which hyaluronic acid is the most well known. Because lipids decrease sharply after the age of 40, the skin is more susceptible to dry skin.
This is a very basic discussion of the skin and some of its components. The best skincare products are formulated understanding these components of the skin. More skin anatomy will follow when the individual ingredients are discussed.